Description

Contents of the kit

• 2x main PCBs
• 2x top and bottom PCB (case)
• 2x acrylic protective covers
• 28x screws
• 10x small standoffs
• 4x large standoffs

What else do you need to buy? (Not included)

• 34x cherry style switches
• 2x Elite-C style microcontrollers
• 2x TRRS PJ-320A sockets
• jack to jack cable
• (optional) 2x OLED displays
• (optional) 12x WS2812b LEDs for underglow

Build instructions

Please mind that the PCBs are two sided so take care to choose which is left and which one is going to be the right side (so you don’t solder two left sides for example).

1. Solder the LEDs on the bottom of the pcb
2. Solder the jack sockets
3. Check if you didn’t solder two same sides. (Trust me, it is very hard to desolder the microcontroller)
4. Solder the microcontrollers and OLEDs
5. Solder the jumpers for the OLEDs – if you have the OLED on the top side, then solder the jumpers on the bottom
6. Put the switches in the top layer PCB and then connect them with the main PCB
7. Solder the switches (If you want to lube them, do it before soldering)
8. Install the acrylic protector (both sides have protective film on it; the protector is transparent not blue)
9. Screw the bottom layer PCB
10. Your yeti is ready for the firmware flash!

Flashing the firmware

The keyboard uses QMK under the hood. Clone the projects git repository and follow the instructions.
(The merge request was not accepted yet, use the version on my fork.)